Two kilometres above Sangla town, at the end of a lane that winds past traditional wooden houses and apple orchards, Kamru Fort rises against the sky. Part fortress, part temple, part living place of worship — it is one of the most extraordinary structures in the Indian Himalayas, and almost nobody outside Kinnaur has heard of it.
History: Over 1,500 Years of Continuous Use
Kamru Fort was originally built as the seat of the Bushahr Kingdom rulers — the dynasty that governed this region of the western Himalayas for centuries before the British arrived. The exact date of original construction is debated, but archaeological evidence and oral histories suggest the site has been in continuous use since at least the 8th century CE, with significant expansions occurring between the 11th and 15th centuries.
The fort served simultaneously as a royal residence, a defensive fortification commanding views over the entire Baspa Valley, and a religious sanctuary. Over time, as the Bushahr kings consolidated power and moved their seat of governance, the military function of Kamru diminished and its role as a temple complex became primary. Today the fort houses a temple dedicated to Kamakhya Devi — a form of the goddess worshipped across the Himalayas — and remains an active place of pilgrimage and worship.
The fort also sits on the ancient trade route that connected the Baspa Valley with the trans-Himalayan routes to Tibet. For centuries, merchants, pilgrims, and soldiers passed beneath its walls. The fort's commanding position was not accidental — anyone entering or leaving the upper valley had to pass within sight of it.
Architecture: The Kath-Kuni Masterpiece
The fort is built in the traditional kath-kuni construction style — interlocking horizontal courses of deodar cedar beams laid alternately with stone. No binding mortar is used on the wooden elements, and no nails. The structure's stability comes entirely from the precision of the interlocking joints and the mass of stone between the timber courses.
This technique, refined over centuries in the western Himalayas, creates buildings that are remarkably earthquake-resistant. Where rigid stone-and-mortar construction cracks and collapses under seismic stress, kath-kuni structures flex. The deodar wood, dense and naturally resistant to decay at high altitude, has survived centuries of Himalayan weather — freeze-thaw cycles, heavy snowloads, monsoon rains — with relatively little deterioration.
The fort rises in three main tiers. The lower level is solid stone — functional and defensive. The upper levels are more elaborately finished, with carved wooden windows, balconies supported by ornate wooden brackets, and the main temple chamber at the summit. The carving on the upper woodwork is extraordinary in its detail — geometric patterns, divine figures, animal motifs — all executed in deodar without power tools.
Visiting Kamru Fort: Practical Information
Opening Hours
Generally 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM during visiting season (May–October). The temple may be closed during certain ritual periods — if the gate is shut, wait near the entrance and a caretaker will usually arrive within 20–30 minutes.
Entry
No fixed entry fee, though donations to the temple maintenance fund are customary and appreciated. A box is usually present near the main shrine. Give what feels appropriate — ₹50–200 per visitor is common.
Time Required
45 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on your pace and interest. Budget extra time if you want to sit on the upper levels and take in the valley view at leisure.
Photography
Permitted in most areas. Ask permission before photographing inside the main temple chamber, particularly during active worship or when priests are present. No flash photography near ancient wooden carvings.
How to Reach Kamru Fort from Sangla
The fort is 2 kilometres from Sangla town — close enough to walk comfortably in 20–30 minutes on a well-marked path, plus a 15-minute climb up stone steps to the fort entrance. Alternatively, vehicles can drive to the base of the final climb, reducing the walk to 15 minutes each way.
Ask any local in Sangla for directions to Kamru Fort — everyone knows it and directions are straightforward. The fort is visible from much of the valley floor on clear days, which is helpful orientation.
Cultural Etiquette: What to Know Before You Go
- Remove footwear before entering any part of the fort that functions as a temple. Signs indicate where this is required but when in doubt, take them off at the entrance.
- Remove leather items — belts, leather bags, leather jackets — at the main gate. This is a specific requirement of Kamakhya Devi temples. A shelf or rack near the entrance provides storage.
- Dress modestly: Covered shoulders and knees are expected. This applies to all visitors regardless of gender.
- Circumambulate clockwise when moving around the main shrine — this is the standard practice in Hindu and Buddhist sacred spaces throughout the Himalayas.
- Speak quietly in the temple chambers. This is an active place of worship, not a museum, and the atmosphere deserves respect.
- Do not touch the main deity or any ritual objects without invitation from the temple priests.
Best Time to Visit
The fort can be visited any time the road to Sangla is open (May–November), but the best conditions depend on what you want from the visit.
For photography: Early morning between 7–9am in May or June, when soft light falls across the wooden carvings and the snow-capped peaks are visible behind the fort. September and October offer the most reliable clear skies.
For atmosphere: During Fulaich (spring flower festival) and other local celebrations when the fort becomes the focal point for community worship. Ask in Sangla about upcoming festival dates.
For solitude: Weekday mornings in May or late October when tourist numbers are lowest. The fort is most powerful when experienced quietly.